Imagine a normal country with borders, a democratically-elected government, sealed passports for the population, a president, and a flag flying—yet nobody recognizes its existence. Welcome to Transnistria.
A small piece of land barely as big as Dallas, Texas, Transnistria once belonged to the Soviet Socialist Republic of Moldova. In 1990, when the Soviet Union fell apart, Moldova gained independence and planned its union with Romania. That caused Transnistria, with a Russian-speaking majority, to declare its own independence to break from Moldova. A four-month war followed, with some 1,500 casualties, ending by a ceasefire still held today. Since then, Moldova has no control over Transnistrian authorities, and likewise, Transnistria acts as an independent country even though no other nation in the world recognizes it.
Local Anton Dendemarchenko, an urban sketcher and tour guide, says: “Showing my beautiful country to foreigners is my contribution to raise international recognition to my homeland. We do not officially exist, but when people visit us, we feel that somehow we do exist.”
For bold travelers interested in visiting this small and mysterious country, here’s what to see:
FIND THE BEST VANTAGE POINT: BENDERY FORTRESS
STEP BACK IN TIME: CENTRAL TIRASPOL
Take an old Soviet trolleybus to October 25th Avenue to stroll the central street of the de-facto capital, Tiraspol. Here one can admire the leftovers of Soviet times that locals proudly memorialize as a glorious time. Transnistria is one of the only places in Europe where travelers can still see former communist symbols in their original place, like statues of Lenin in front of the Parliament, and streets and avenues named after Marx, Engels, and Yuri Gagarin.
GET CULTURED: KITSKANY MONASTERY AND PLATSDARM
Barely four miles away from Tiraspol, discover the domed Orthodox Monastery of Kitskany, founded in 1861. Closed during Soviet times, the beautiful complex of four churches is also home to monks that cultivate their own organic food between prayers.
TASTE LUXURY: KVINT COGNAC DISTILLERY
Then get a taste of the most important industry and main export of Transnistira. Living up to its name, a cognac called Divine is considered one of the world’s finest. One bottle can cost up to $1,700. More than 20 million bottles are sold every year to consumers around the world, representing a whopping five percent of the GDP. Visit the Kvint Distilleryto understand the process, sample the spirit, and buy the perfect souvenir for a fraction of the price elsewhere.
SOAK IN A SOVIET SPA: SANATORII DNESTR
About a two-and-a-half-hour drive north from Tiraspol, explore this hidden gem built just after World War Two. The last remodelling was completed in 1976, remaining stuck in its glorious communist past. Imagine the meetings of the bigwigs of the Party, while enjoying professional spa treatments, meals, and accommodations for an affordable price.
Based in Barcelona, writer Oscar Vaello frequently travels to unexpected places like Transnistria, North Korea, and Chechnya.